Captivating Kerala

CAPTIVATING KERALA

Kerala – God’s own Country. A most sought after holiday destination for Indians and foreigners alike. Though small, this south Indian state boasts of all the necessary things to attract any earnest tourist. There may be so many others who have already made it their home!

J and I were looking out for a honeymoon destination and we zeroed in on Kerala because we had heard so much about it. He wanted to visit Munnar and I have always dreamed of cruising down the backwaters. The Kerala Tourism Department’s green coconut palm-swaying logo beckoned. It brought about visions of tall, swaying coconut trees, blue backwaters, sandy beaches, lush green hills, blue-green sea. Putting aside the clichéd “Ayurvedic treatment packages” marketed all over, I wanted to know more about “Enchanting Kerala”. I was soon listing hotels, tour packages, train schedules, houseboat tariffs, sightseeing spots, how to get from one place to another, the best package deal, etc. etc. Whew!!! But it all added to the excitement.

Keeping our budget in mind, I contacted everyone possible who could give me the information I was looking for. Of course, I did get a good package deal from the manager of Hotel Aiswarya, Ernakulum but opted to make the trip on our own, this time .

Departure dates were around the end of September when the monsoons were gradually withdrawing and we would get to experience the green freshness after the rains. The date was fixed and the train tickets booked to our first halt, Trivandrum and onwards to our first destination, Kovalam. The journey took about 17 hours; we arrived at Trivandrum Railway Terminus around 8 in the morning. After a hot cup of coffee at the station, we stepped out looking around for transportation to Kovalam where we were booked to stay at Swagath Holiday Resorts for two days.

We took an auto rickshaw (a three wheeler) to Kovalam, a 30 minute drive away and soon we were on our way down the curving driveway towards the beautiful white façade of our hotel and pulled up in front of the high portico in front. Offloading our bags, we stepped into immense but cozy lobby and were greeted at the reception by the gracious hotel Manager with a warm welcome and shown to our Row House overlooking the lovely blue swimming pool. Keen swimmers will understand how elated my husband was at the sight of this wonders of wonders, right outside the room. What luxury!!! I liked the landscaping at Swagath which was exceptionally nice, especially the area near the row houses, at the back of the hotel, near the swimming pool.

The journey had been long and so after a nice, relaxing bath and wholesome breakfast at the
in-house restaurant in a quiet corner of the hotel, we stepped out to discover Kovalam and the golden sands of nearby Hawa beach. We were surprised to find the beach clean of debris and the water clear. The tourists were flocking towards the other beach as the hotels were clustered there, so we had the wide expanse to ourselves. The weather was warm but pleasant, cool water lapped at our feet in gentle waves. Watching the white surf lashing gently against the rocks towards the extreme right made a picture perfect scene. We spent as much time as we could and then walked back up for lunch at a little place near the Hotel Leela Kempinski. After lunch it was siesta time!!!!! A cool, cozy, spacious row house beckoned.

Our hotel Manager told us that Kovalam means a grove of coconut trees and true to its name the village offers an endless sight of coconut trees. There are 2 beaches here, the Hawa beach and the Lighthouse beach. True to its name, there is a lighthouse at the far end of the crescent shaped beach. There is a little sloping pathway leading to the beach. We spent the evening window-shopping at the little shops around the entrance to the beach. These little places sell a wide variety of handicrafts from every part of India and a lot of local produce too. The Kashmiri handicrafts, stoles, scarves, paintings etc. drew a lot of tourists in. Walking along the beach was a little difficult as there were several tourists mingling around but that adds to the fun of it all. We noticed plenty of hotels and restaurants along the beach serving fresh seafood in grilled and baked form. We walked down right to the far end, near the lighthouse and found a little tea stall run by an old couple and tasted the most delicious cup of tea ever.

Warm sunshine filtering in through the slats in our bedside window woke us up the next morning. Soon after a lap in the swimming pool in front of our room and a hearty breakfast of eggs and toast, it was the Lighthouse beach again.

The long row of hotels built right on the beach was a sight to behold. And what lucky people; they had the waves practically lapping the steps leading up to each individual hotel. I immediately pulled my hubby into one of the smaller ones which had some tables set up in the porch and sat down for a hot cup of tea. The experience has left me with memories which will remain for a very long time. What bliss!!! Sipping on a steamy cup of elaichi flavoured tea, watching the waves come in, the fishermen pulling in a large net with fresh catch, tourists walking up and down, jumping and playing in the sea !

Our hotel Manager told us that Kanyakumari which is at the southernmost tip of the country wasn’t too far away. This place was earlier known as Cape Comorin. The name of this place has been christened after the virgin goddess – Kanyakumari Amman. The black stone image of Kanyakumari in the sanctum of the temple is an enchanting one. Of particular significance is the glittering nose ring that is visible from a distance.

The nearest airport is about 87 kilometers away from Kanyakumari, located in Trivandrum (Kerala State). There are two railway junctions, one is the Kanyakumari Junction and the other is the Nagarcoil Junction.

We took a 9 am bus from Trivandrum to Kanyakumari and were there by lunch time. Hungry and earning for a rice plate with fish curry, we found a local eatery opposite the bus stop which was a clean and decent place to eat; the prices were reasonable too and the food was finger – licking good!!

As for Kanyakumari, it was beautiful. True to what I had heard, the waters from the three oceans merged and mingled together. We went right down to the water and dipped our feet in. We walked past little stalls selling a wide display of different, colourful products for daily use and a lot of things to hold the tourists’ attention.

We also viewed the famous Vivekananda Rock Memorial. This is where Swami Vivekananda is said to have sat in deep meditation. We wandered around and came across the Gandhi Memorial built on the spot where the urn containing the Mahatma's ashes was kept for public viewing before immersion. Resembling central Indian Hindu temples in form, the memorial was so designed that on Mahatma Gandhi's birthday (October 2), the first rays of the sun fall on the exact place where the ashes of the father of the nation were kept. The place was as peaceful as one would want it to be.

We took a late afternoon bus (there was one at 2 pm to Trivandrum apparently but we missed that) and were in Trivandrum early evening. We visited our favourite dining place and then tired out from the day’s excursion, retired to our warm, cozy room.

Plans for the next day after breakfast was a round trip by three-wheeler around Trivandrum for a small amount. We visited the local fish aquarium among other things. We also managed to squeeze in a local backwater trip on a little country boat, sipping fresh coconut juice, taking in the cool blue waters.

We wished we could have stayed on for a few more days but we had to move on to the next stop on our itinerary, Allapuzha.

The next stop on our itinerary was Allapuzha aka Alleppy and the excitement of spending a day on a houseboat which we had hired for a reasonable amount, was increasing by the minute. But we had no idea how to get to Alleppy so we spoke to our kind hotel manager who gave us a splendid offer of a chauffer driven non AC Tata Indigo to Alleppy, 12 hours stay on a houseboat in Alleppy and drive down to Munnar (the next stop) and thereafter take us to Ernakulum Railway Terminus for our train back to Mumbai. After some negotiation, we came to a decision. The package tour sounded worth the amount and left early the next day for Alleppy. We arrived there around 11 and stepped onto the rocking boat. Our car and driver would wait overnight for us at the parking lot till our return the next day.

The houseboat manager greeted us on arrival and led us to the houseboat. I was taken aback at the huge size and exterior. It was a lovely houseboat with double room facilities. It takes great skill and meticulousness to construct these giant Houseboats, generally 60 – 70 feet in length and a width of 15 feet. These houseboats are traditionally known as Kettuvalams, which means a boat made by tying together pieces of wood. Kettu means tied with ropes, and vallam means boat - Malayalam language). Not a single nail is used in the making of a ketuvallam. Jackwood planks are joined together with coir rope and then coated with black resin made from boiled cashew nut shells. The roof covering is made of bamboo poles and palm leaves.

Kettuvallams or Houseboats are country boats that were used in the early days for transportation of goods from the isolated interior villages to the towns. With the advent of roads, bridges and ferry services, the Kettuvallams gradually were seldom used. Now with the huge inflow of tourists, these kettuvallams are back again as a major tourist attraction. A ride on a Kettuvallam is a fabulous way to explore the fascinating beauty of the backwaters. The houseboats are furnished with all the amenities for the inflow of tourists, with a cozy, spacious living room, dining area, well furnished bedrooms with clean, attached bathrooms, one or two bath attached bedrooms and a kitchenette. Every houseboat is manned by a crew - usually a cook, a Captain, and an Oarsman.

The backwaters mainly covers the four districts of the state - Kollam, Alleppey aka Alappuzha, Kottayam and Kochi aka Cochin. The largest backwater body, the Vembanad lake flows through Alleppey and Kottayam districts and opens out into the sea at the Kochi Port.

Our houseboat had an arch framing the entrance which we stepped through and stepped down into the little living room, dotted all over with cane furniture and a huge dining table, television, and recliners on either side hugging the sides of the houseboat. We were given a tour of the houseboat after we set down our bags in the cozy bedroom with attached bathroom. We peeped into the large kitchen and met the cook who was busy preparing lunch for us. After the guided tour, we spent the rest of our time in the living room. The breeze was cool, the blue waters expansive, small waves forming little ripples, lapping the sides of the houseboat. Our houseboat wound through the labyrinth of backwaters, in and out. Tall coconut trees lined the banks, swaying in the breeze. This is the essence and heart of Kerala, the coconut trees. We learned that coconut, the mainstay and livelihood of the Keralites, can be put to a lot of use.
The coconut palm is grown for its many culinary and non-culinary uses; virtually every part of the coconut palm is used.

The coconut has a smooth greenish covering. The outer shell is a fibrous husk one to two inches. The inner shell is brown and hard. When the coconut is still young it contains a large amount of fluid or juice. The edible portion is located on the inner surface which is filled with coconut water, a highly nutritious food source, containing sugar, fiber, proteins, antioxidants, vitamins and minerals. It is used as a refreshing drink throughout the humid tropics and is also used in isotonic sports drinks.
When the coconuts mature, most fluid is absorbed and its flesh thickens and hardens.

The coconut also provides oil for cooking and making margarine. The thick, hardened, white, fleshy part is edible and used fresh or dried in cooking. The fiber from the husk of the coconut known as coir is used to make ropes, mats, brushes etc. It is also used extensively in for making potting compost. Coir is also used for making mattresses at Kerala, in India. Coconut leaves are used for making brooms, baskets and roofing materials or reed mats in India. The stiff leaf midribs can be used to make cooking skewers, kindling arrows, or are bound into bundles, brooms and brushes. In India, particularly in Kerala and Tamil Nadu, the woven coconut leaves are used as 'Pandals' (temporary sheds) for wedding functions. Coconut trunks are used for building small bridges; as the trunks are straight, strong, and hardy and have a high salt resistance. Coconut trunks are also used in constructing houses. Coconuts are offered by Hindus during religious worship. Irrespective of their religious affiliation, fishermen of India often offer coconuts to the rivers and seas in the hope of a bountiful catch.

Cruising along, we passed by lots of smaller and bigger houseboats gliding along peacefully in those pristine clear, blue waters.

Suddenly we heard what sounded like singing which came closer and closer. Looking out to find the source of the “singing” we were surprised to find a man in a little country boat with some wares. It seems that since the local people rarely move out of their houses, the market comes to their doorstep making it very convenient for the womenfolk to do their “shopping”. The boatman was calling out, his voice rippling across the backwaters, making it sound like “singing”.

Soon we were jolted back to reality by our cook calling us for lunch and we sat down at the dining table laden with the most delightful food. The cook had prepared dishes from the local cuisine. The soft breeze, the ambience and the delicious food, did wonders for our appetite. We halted for an hour for lunch under a canopy of swaying coconut trees, shaded by their huge branches. The weather turned cool in the afternoon and we soaked in the luxury in the breezy living room on the comfortable recliners till we were gently woken up for tea! We had fallen asleep, lulled into a deep slumber to the swaying of the houseboat, the movement of the water and the lovely breeze!!!

As we cruised along, we watched the fading sunlight and the sun setting over the waters. Just before it turned dark, the houseboat was moored outside the owner’s house. Dinner was as wholesome as lunch and far more delicious! We started out early the next day and were slowly brought in around 9:30 pm. A day on the houseboat had passed so quickly and it was over so soon. What a lovely experience it was! We thanked the staff for their hospitality and stepped off the boat promising ourselves to return soon for another trip along the famous blue backwaters of Kerala.

Our car and driver were waiting and soon we on our way to Munnar, a town covered with extensive tea plantations, set at an altitude of 6000 ft in Idukki district. Most of the tea plantations have now been taken over by the Tata Tea Company. This is also the natural habitat of half the world's population of the almost extinct rare mountain goat or Nilgiri Tahr.

We by some picturesque landscape along the way; through cardamom trees, rubber plantations, pepper plantations, rolling hills, winding roads, shady trees, cute country houses.

Finally we were at Munnar and checked into our hotel, Misha Holiday Home. It was sunny when we left Alleppy but it started drizzling on the way to Munnar; it was pouring when we arrived. Since Munnar is located at a height above sea level, it was freezing and we were glad we brought along some warm woolies. Our room was warm and toasty. It was evening when we arrived and we were hungry by dinner time. Room service was the best option as we just couldn’t bring ourselves to leave the warmth of our room.

We set out early next day for an early morning walk in the early morning sunshine. Breakfast was essentially South Indian fare comprising of dosa and idli. Munnar is a small place but there are plenty of tourist spots on the outskirts.

Our driver knew his way about Munnar like the palm of his hand. We drove to the expansive Rajamalai sanctuary, kept our cameras for safekeeping with the security guard (as per rules) and hopped onto the sanctuary mini bus for a short climb to the top. We passed by several waterfalls but the biggest was the one just before our bus halted at the entry point. From there, it was a long walk along a winding path, with bright flowers lining the path accompanied by small bushes.

We were eagerly looking out for the Tahr and finally our patience paid off with a far glimpse. The view more than made up for it with lush green surroundings and the cool wind. Everything was picture perfect; perfect weather with a little sunshine and clouds. But we did have to leave finally and return to our mini bus for the downward descent. After this we visited the Tea Museum and learned all about tea making and tea making machines; bought a few packets of flavoured tea too.

Soon it was time for lunch and I was keen on tasting the locally prepared fish curry, rice and buttermilk. It was so delicious that I polished off the entire dish. My hubby opted for the local biryani; I say local because it was prepared a little differently with succulent light flavours.

Our next stop was the Mattapetty Dam where we walked back and forth enjoying the reflection of the crystal clear, still blue- green water in the blue sky above.

Soon it was time to return home and catch our train back from Ernakulam Railway Terminus.

We had just been to God’s Own Country.

Package information - Contact Mr. K. K., Manager, Hotel Aiswarya (mrkkaiswarya@yahoo.com)
Hotel information –
Swagath Holiday Resorts (Kovalam) - http://www.swagathresorts.com/

Tariff in 2006 – Rs 800 for a non AC Double room
Misha Holiday Home (Munnar) – anish_mnr@yahoo.co.in

Tariff in 2006 – Rs 700 for Standard Double room.
Driver (from Swagath Holiday Resorts) – Mr. Jayachandran - 09847125478

Houseboat information –
For the houseboat we stayed at – contact – Prasanth Nelson – 09847945772
http://www.keralagreenery.org/houseboats
http://www.thehouseboatskerala.com/
http://www.atdcalleppey.com/houseboats
http://www.munnar.com/glimpses